Uruguay

We spent the past two days in a small town in Uruguay, Colonia del Sacramento. The town is across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, only a one hour boat trip. Declared by UNESCO as a world heritage site, the town has a city gate and wooden drawbridge, a lighthouse and convent ruins and old, cobblestone streets. It was very peaceful and quiant. Everyone in town rides old scooters and mopeds, like the one I have in San Francisco (a 1979 Motobecane). I really wanted to rent one, which you could do for $10 for the day, but I decided those streets were not exactly conducive to moped riding (or walking, even) and that it would end up being a real pain in the ass.
Nevertheless, entire families took to riding the streets, piling onto their mopeds and just hoping the little ones would hold on tight! I am not kidding. There were two year-olds just riding on the back of Dad's moped, barely able to get their short little arms around the sides of his back. And not a helmet in sight. Except for one dorky American couple we kept seeing riding about. Helmets may save your life, but they sure do look silly! Unfortunately, I did not get a decent shot of the families on mopeds. I felt kind of rude blatantly snapping photos of them.
Antique cars were ubiquitous as well.
Like Argentines, Uruguayans are the kindest people I have ever encountered. They actually walk up to you if you seem lost and ask how they can help. I have also had countless discussions (in espanol!) with taxi drivers in Buenos Aires. They are so helpful and friendly and genuinely curious about you. Of course, they could have easily been saying with a kind smile, "Ha! You don't understand a word I am saying, do you? What an idiot!" That would be when I glance confusedly at Anne-e and say, "Did you get that? Hmm, I didn't get that part.." then I look back at the cabbie in the rearview mirror and say, "Si, claro."
Tonight is tango. My first milonga in Buenos Aires. A milonga is a traditional tango dance party. They usually start around 11 am and go until about 5 am. Which is not unusual for here, as dinner time is not before 10! Anne-e and I are not accustomed to this. By 8 we are hungry. By 9 we are salivating and by 10 we head to dinner, always to be the first people to arrive.
We found a place to live! We each rented rooms in a shared house in Palermo, a really great neighborhood, close to everything. The girl we are renting from is Argentinian and very nice, so we are really looking forward to speaking Spanish at home. Now that we know where we are living, we are going to sign up for our classes, which we are both eager to begin.
So tango. I derail a lot...so we met these guys on the boat back from Uruguay, two Americans, who are living in Buenos Aires and one of them plays Flamenco guitar, which Anne-e wants to learn now. So we are going to tango class tonight with them, since they have never done it and were interested in trying it. Anne-e probably won't dance because she has two left feet (she says that, not me!) but maybe she will watch and write a book about it.
More next week, luvas. And I will post my new address in case anyone wants to send me something I can't get here like antibacterial soap, or cough suppressant or ass wipes. Seriously, the tiolet paper here is like tree bark.